« its aLiVe and out of the closet... | Main | India Trip 04 »
November 04, 2004
Dawn Patrol
its november. most places in the country are pouring coffee this morning. peering through the windows from the warmth of their dwellings. lots of mornnig mantras happening and shuffling about.
here, the sky is rising with colorful shades of morning light. looked out over diamond head to see if there is any thick clouds about. checked the trees to guage the trade winds. soft morning pinks and oranges off the eastern side of the island. loaded the boards and headed down to cliffs for a session.
1-2 foot hawaiian style, somewhat glassy on the inside and a random chest high set every now and again on the outside. water was a little chilly. but we're still talking shorts only with no need for a rash guard. the paddle out was nice, got to see the sun burst through the clouds. caught a few nice waves, watched ye float down the wall on a few good ones. she's getting better and better and starting to feel the joys of longboarding. there is a great feeling to be had when you see a nice wave building out beyond the reef coming towards you. the feeling of turing the board, slipping a few good solid strokes in and the wave picking you up. quick to the feet and lean right. float on down the wall dragging your fingers in the aqua colored marble wall. kick out and do it again. this is stress relief if i had to say.
ye gives me the signal for one more wave then we head in and shuffle to the car. stopped at the local market for a thai coffee and a spam musibi breakfast. driving down the road with the lush green rolling mtns in the back drop. home to get ready for work. ye heads upstairs to the clinic and me a 2 minute cool morning scoot ride with only stop signs and a couple cars along the way. kicked on kexp.org (90.3), launched a few browsers for the bbc and cycling news. still finding sand caked on my toes from the session.
not a bad morning. we may be poor, but i love our life. these are the days i appreciate and in time will come to reflect as easy days in the south pacific life.
Posted by Single Fin at November 4, 2004 08:16 PM