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November 11, 2004
Gas Chambers
cool photo i found of the real surfers of the ocean!
slept in this morning. awoke and the muscles are way to sore to load up the boards for a sunrise session. pitty though it looks like its a good mornnig out there. surfed my brains out yesterday. double session and logged 4hours.
in the morning we cruz'd up to north shore for a session at gas chambers, a spot right next to pipeline. small waves today so we had to surf closer to shore than expected. sHALLow chunky reef & slow moving waves. just out and about in the morning sun. we weren't the only ones out this morning. many little surprises in the water. lots of tropical fishes buzzing about beneath us. flashes of multi colors zipping along in various schools. guess they are alot like us. morning mantras and routines. then the sea turtles ("honu" in hawaiian) decided to let us know they were chilling in the line-up as well. so many out this morning. like subs coming up to the surface they pop up right next to you. kinda freak you out at first cuz your not really expecting it. then they look over and around with those soft black eyes. checkin the area out. sometimes i feel like they can see into your soul when they look at you. so quiet and chill. dark eyes with such old souls. i ended up seeing about 7 throught the session. then out of nowhere this huge whale starting jumping out of the water about a 1/2 mile out in front of us. the ocean is clean and glassy mind you so visability is far. super cool to see the whale just heaving itself out of the water and bombing back down with a huge splash. the first and early sighting of the up coming whale season. or should i say the start of the whale season. soon enough you'll be able to see them all the time. ye is always so stoked and seems to see them whenever everybody else isn't looking.
another side note is from the other day. so i'm siting in the line-up and waiting for a set. out of the blue rockets this dolphin with a twist and curl of its body in the air, then disappeared. very unexpected and a good reminder we're not alone out there.
the afternoon session started about 3 over at diamond head. chunkywaves, light trades, high tide, mushy and head high. good single fin riding for the long board. lots of people out though. only a few regulars in the line up so it made sitting in the right spot pretty easy since everyone else is following the monkey see monkey do attitude.
i need some serious coffee this morning. body wants to sleep & mind wants to go. odd space to be in.
aloha
Posted by Single Fin at November 11, 2004 08:50 PM