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November 28, 2004
north shore waves...
aloha our dear o'hana,
another day in paradise... set out for a day to play in the water with our local hawaiian o'hana. we all piled into kimo's vanagon, stacks of surfboards...7 footers to as high 10 foot boards, piled high next to us, off to the north shore in search of waves. i caught my biggest wave!! 3 to 4 feet hawaiian, which is the equivalent to 6 to 8 feet from the base of the the wave to the peak. these waves were definitely a beast of their own...growing ever so gracefully, high up into the air...and then curling over and wiping out everyone in sight as it broke. i got caught in the "toilet bowl" a few times...being squooshed around and all the while gaining an extra foot or two on my leash (it attaches to my ankle from my surfboard). humbled by mother nature and yet also so blessed by her in the same hour. occasional sightings of the sacred turtles in the ocean reminded us that the ocean is shared by so many.
a wonderful surprise by my roommates today...a pre-cut surfboard, ready to be designed on and glassed for me!! i just finished up with my surfboard design. a big fat buddha sitting on a lotus flower to go on my 3rd board. it's a 9 foot, 3 inch thick long board that is specifically designed for me. i'll submit the pics' once it's all done. i can't wait!!
with love,
ye
Posted by Single Fin at November 28, 2004 07:59 AM