« chicks with sticks | Main | sunset wednesday night »
January 19, 2005
up early this morning
a view from the "cliffs" high above the break.
up early this morning for a much needed session. the weather in the south shore has been junk for the last week. kona weather & trade winds all week long. made for nasty surf & lots of cabin fever for us southern island surfers. not to mention during all the bad weather last week the island got a nice southern & western swell. so we had waves but they ended up being blown out or choppy.
anyhow, this morning the winds are gone & the weather has cleared. sun was cracking about 7am & the line up was filling up with all the normal locals. good vibe in the water this morning. lots of people chattering about this & that. only bummer was on the paddle out when i scrapped a little reef & broke my fin off. ah well, lucky i had another fin set up in the car. by the time i returned ye was paddling into a sweet head high wave. of course she was sitting the deepest out & catches one of the best waves of the morning. (:-P) all the locals where hooting & yelling in encouragement. lots of gals in the water this morning as well. which i think is why people were having so much fun & being chill.
as you can tell here:
ye looks happy/satisfied as she loads up the boards to head home. i'm sure she'll be daydreaming all day about her sweet waves this morning.
Posted by Single Fin at January 19, 2005 11:52 AM
Comments
thanks for getting me up this morning and for all your encouragement!! i wouldn't have had such a great surf session without ya'...
lots of love!!!
Posted by: surfin' mama at January 19, 2005 05:15 PM