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April 28, 2005
glassy butter rollers
surf this morning was epic. paddled out about 530am into the light blue/ green ocean. so quiet out there with just the sounds of the surf peeling along the break. its that kind of morning when you paddle in the water & its like butter. your hands just slip in & out as the board glides along the lake like conditions.
the waves were so sweet. head high & glassy on the big breaks w/ the smaller break glassy & chest high. perfect nose riding faces w/ ever so sweet bottom turns & a little finger dragging on the wall. reminds me of the same feeling of dragging your finger through frosting or fresh mtn powder. lots of folks happy this morning with a stoked grin from ear to ear.
to add to the flavor, last night we watched the movie "sprout". which i highly recommend as a surf flick to be seen. great music with some soulful surfing, all shot in 16mm film.
oh yeah one more thing. check out this photo i came across the other day. i beleive this is from down under where this year they have had plenty of shark attacks. needless to say this photo freaaaaaaaks me out.
Posted by Single Fin at April 28, 2005 12:22 PM
Comments
why do most pictures of great whites have gory bloody mouths? eek. it almost looks like a fake movie prop. thanks again for the burn.
aloha nui,
~ v
Posted by: val at April 28, 2005 05:38 PM