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April 13, 2005
loving it! {surf report (part4) }
more southern swell action allllllll weeeeeek loooong!
between ye & the new roomies, i now have plenty of surfing co-pilots to play in the waves. so the bishman & i decided to hit some left handers today over at "tongs". since he's a goofy footer it was a nice welcome for him since we've been going right all week.
stoked to see the bishman taking on the challenge. a month or 2 ago he was at tongs & had a bad crash where his board flew up in the air. then it came down & stuck a fin into his calf. OUCH! needless to say he bleed & then needed some stiches.
no bad luck though this morning. nice left handers were had by all during the session. some great shoulder high sets came in towards the end that made the stoke that much better. i walked away w/ a new found love for going backside. the motion is so much fun & the view is much better when you're facing the shore.
Posted by Single Fin at April 13, 2005 04:18 PM
Comments
niiiiiice! tonggs can be super fun with a smooth slopey left. at dh i go backsides all the time and it's great :-)
fannie says dh report was good this morning, but i'm heading to town tomorrow. lotsa work, so no surf today. we're thinking 3s tomorrow. maybe see you guys there!
alohaz,
~ v
Posted by: val at April 14, 2005 04:09 PM
i always found backside to be a good change, i used to surf a lot at assateague island where they have the wild ponies off the coast of virginia, cool head high slow rollers all summer. pretty hollow waves?
Posted by: tim at April 15, 2005 08:28 AM