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June 16, 2005
cutting back
some mornings just gel...
up @ the crack of darkness w/ eager speculation of the new swell hitting last night while we were fast asleep. loaded up the van & headed down to diamond head. looked like little to no wind, glassy waves with little to no chop & calm morning skies. stroked out to the break with only 3 people in the water. caught some fun head high waves, dragged the finger on the wall, closed the eyes & rode the wall to the shoulder. sweeping up from the pit to the lip & drawing a nice "s" carve cutt back throwing the hands in the air like a rollercoaster ride. only to return to the peak & drop back to a front side return. those few moments feel so drunkenly addictive. the motion of dropping in from the peak on a wave the size of a vw van w/ a vantage of the next 50 yards being the same. combined w/ a pink sunrise, the smell of fresh south pacific ocean & a rainbow stretching her warm glow over your head. @ this point life just stops & the stoke is unfolded.
2hours this morning & it was time to cruz to work. wish i could have stayed longer, but for some reason she ( the ocean) just sent me a nice cruzer wave & i headed in. grabbed a cup of coffee & chatted w/ the bishman on the way home about life & the stoke still burning from the session we just had.
kissed ye goodbye for the morning & was off for the days events.
guess its all about the little things...
Posted by Single Fin at June 16, 2005 01:45 PM
Comments
great entry!! i felt like i was right there with ya', love. can you tell everyone about my wave of the day (friday)? :)
Posted by: lil' panda at June 17, 2005 12:53 PM
great entry!! i felt like i was right there with ya', love. can you tell everyone about my wave of the day (friday)? :)
Posted by: lil' panda at June 17, 2005 12:53 PM