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June 17, 2005

girl in the curl

ok ok, this is very blog worthy news.
ye caught an epic wave today. the conditions were junk, the wind was blowing out everything & the line up was getting jittery while waiting for a wave with some decent quality.

after about a hour or more of this we decided it's time to go & heat up w/ a cupa coffee. on the paddle in we usually catch a couple small rollers to have some fun and horse around. the motto we have is that the last couple little waves on the way in one should try to practice some technique, footwork or trick. something to keep the skills wandering.

today for ye's last wave she caught a sweet inside shoulder high set wave. a perfect 45% angle drop on a bowling out glassy wall. she dropped to the inside right of the board, slid her hands along the wall as she crouched into a small stance on the wave while the white wash crumbled across her back & the tail of the board. pigtails flapping in the breeze as she b-lined for the shoulder w/ a nice backside cut back only then to be follwed up shortly with a front side cut to take the wave into shore.

some great decisions on style & board position, no doubt. that was the wave of the spring so far for her. just the right combination of wave riding on a junky day & coming out of the ocean w/ that ear to ear grin.

gotta love the stoke after something like that.

Posted by Single Fin at June 17, 2005 01:58 PM

Comments

Posted by: lil' surfin' panda at June 17, 2005 08:28 PM

Posted by: Matt at June 21, 2005 01:17 PM

Posted by: val at June 23, 2005 02:40 AM