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June 06, 2005
summer swells
finally the swell trains are starting to switch their preferred directions. rather then coming in @ a NW, N, W direction its now moving from a S, SE, SW flow. the winter storms off the new zeland, tasman sea, easter island as well as several other locations tend to brew up nice waves to trickle up here.
post session reports from the weekend:
surfed ahella lot this past weekend. (4hrs friday, 2 sat, 2 sun & about 2 this morning) the stoke was great & mixed up the breaks so i could get a good variety. friday night was the best session of'm all. paddled out w/ about 100 people in the water for the 5 o'clock after work madness. i've learned that the trick to handle this is when its busy like that......better to bring the 10 footer. easier to sit deep way past everyone & wait for the bombers. don't get as many waves as others with this approach, but it does net some sweet glassy monsters.
@ about 645pm the sun dropped over the sky & she started to part her way to her more alluring sister the moon. the crowds dwindled & the wind backed off. leaving about 10 of us to surf shoulder to head high waves for about 45minutes under the twilight of the sun & moon. catch as many as you could handle paddling for. i literally got to shore in the black of night w/ exhausted arms & out of breath. some of the best feelings of stoke are the most raw i suppose.
this morning was fun, a bit warbly & funky shaped but fun all the less.
waves are suppose to hold through the week & then pick up again by friday for another summer swell to hit.
alohas
Posted by Single Fin at June 6, 2005 12:13 PM