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August 19, 2005
its all good
chill morning out in the surf @ dawn patrol. beautiful sunrise with pink, orange & red cotton candy clouds. the waves were a weeee bit tiny, but still fun to horse around on. especially on the inside w/ a longboard. actually rode one of my best nose rides today. nice little hiphigh righthander w/ a glassy 40 yard wall. good enough to scootch out on the nose & arch the arms back while grasping the hands. gave me a nice tingle stoke that warmed the soul. a true pleasure of an experience that i wish could last forever.
i suppose thats why i'm a junkie when it comes to surfing. i'll surf the hump, bump, chop, slop, glass, mush, hollow, peaky, trade wind blown, wee small & doubled up over head. i'll pick the sand out of my hair, use aloe for a weeks worth of sunburns, give up sleep & tend to basic reef slashes. you name it i'll try it & live it for the love of the glide. to be free & slip on down the face into moments of pure bliss. the feeling of mother nature giving you a wave is to feel a mothers hug..enduring, warm, strong & loving.
today is fullmoon. this means we are heading out for a fullmoon session tonight under the glowing soft moonlight. moon bathing in a sea of energy. the great thing is that you can eliminate the perspective of vision. well, maybe not eliminate...but reduce it drastically. therefore giving you the chance to use your other senses such as balance, intuition & touch.
should be a dandy...
oh yeah....here's a few shots of the bishman getting the surf troop pumped up for the day...
Posted by Single Fin at August 19, 2005 02:59 PM
Comments
we love you, grandpa!!!
xoxo's
Posted by: soul sista' at August 22, 2005 06:32 AM