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September 14, 2005

southern hemi swell is here

yeaaaaaahaaaaaa summer southern hemi swell has arrived!
with a nice wrap hitting the south shore we decided to head off to the famous southern break that offers one of the nicest waves the south shore has to offer...."3's"

hit the water about 545am-ish & stroked the 250 yrds to the break. the whole time there was this surreal tune in my mind. alot like a nice thumping india style gruve beat. must has been the cheb i sabbah we had playing the night before at the house. either way, the waves were peeling 6-8' solid w/ regular big sets holding stong @ 8'-12'.

some of the most epic waves of the morning came in @ a solid 10-12. goose bumps all around as the locals all jockyed for positioning in the line up. slipping in the right spot, making unsaid eye contact, stroking deep, hooting & hollering all the way down the face. lots of guys getting tubed & stoked. the bishman & i caught some waves that were the biggest we had ever surfed. mind you 3's breaks a beautiful right hander that is about 75 yards long on the average & even more on bigger sets. it was epic to drop in on a 10' face w/ 75yrds to go as it tappered to a moderate chest high inside break. after a few more waves i paddled away to the next break (paradise) once the crowds grew to a wacky number. the grin on my face was the same grin i had when i met ye & we had out first date.

nothing like it.....nothing.

life is good.

Posted by Single Fin at September 14, 2005 02:15 PM

Comments

Posted by: lil' panda at September 14, 2005 03:39 PM

Posted by: lil' panda at September 14, 2005 03:40 PM