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September 03, 2005

where to surf?

surf has been up for the past 10 days. YEEEEEEEEEE HAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!

ja ja (JAVA Sport) i feel just like your legs do after that epic trip you just had. at the moment my body is exhausted to its core. i can feel the dull lull in my joints as waves come & go. but i must stroke for them. cuz ya see i can't stop. i've tried & i found its a sickness i have in search of bliss. guess one of the many lessons learned moving to hawaii is that in my heart i love mother nature. then again i've always known that in some ways. but its a true treat to discover something that just touches a special soft spot of the soul. as in any deep relationship, those kinds of moments are welcomed & cherished when trying to live for the now.

anyhow...
last week was a great swell of just glassy butter'd up chest high/ head high waves. had some of the best rides last week. at one point i had so many goosebumps from a great session that i could have melted away. mama nature just allowing me to connect with her all week. i felt so blessed that our energy was so dialed in.

even just the process of sitting in the lineup has been great. lots of good connections with people & us surfers have been graced with several old visitors. we've had epic views of the surrounding islands, several turtles floating around with multiple dolphins also passing by. i've grown to have such a strong love for the water. its addicting & i find myself missing her. i look forward to slipping into the warm waters. gliding down the face as the sun drops away.

lola surf forecast for labor day weekend:
3-5 ft. - waist to head high with occasional 6 ft. and good conditions.
reinforcing SSW swell arrives with building sets saturday. kinda smooth at some spots early this saturday AM. expect clean & light OFFshore conditions...along with some bigger sets through the weekend.

so....yesterday i took some time & tried to rest. catch up on some sleep & mentally getting ready to make another push for some great sessions. take that mixture & top it with some bbq's, friends, good laughs, family & aloha. cook well at 82degrees in the sun & serve chilled with ice.
:-D

aloha's to you all.
we miss you and we promise to catch some for you.
Surf spots around the island

Posted by Single Fin at September 3, 2005 04:36 PM

Comments

Posted by: lil' panda at September 4, 2005 03:18 PM

Posted by: lil' panda at September 4, 2005 03:18 PM

Posted by: ja at September 7, 2005 09:01 AM

Posted by: Markus at June 9, 2007 11:04 PM

Posted by: Markus at June 28, 2007 04:49 AM

Posted by: laciesdad at August 5, 2007 11:59 AM

Posted by: laciesdad at August 5, 2007 12:00 PM