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October 14, 2005
north shore's 1st real fall swell has arrived
yesterday i hit n.shore to catch some of the nw swell that is hitting right now.
surf report was calling for 12-18ft regular faced waves with light winds.
decided to cruz on up to our good friends land where they have surf huts for camping.
sweet lil'cabins with plenty of starlight, fruit trees & breeze to make for a comfy sleep after a few beers under the moon.
sure enough when i got up & checked haleiwa beach the waves were cranking.
so a few of us headed out to puaena point & police beach. the waves were going off @ about 12ft faces before they started to lip & curl. it was getting narly when the outside big sets came in. i was on the inside for a couple of those sneaker sets. let me tell you....i've been hit by many things in my life. but "a 12ft north shore wave at full speed as i sit in the pit" is getting its own category. i got my bell rung a few times. felt like having my brain reset like a computer on/off button.
it was a session of fear & stoke. our friend kimo was on a 9'8" longboard gun & he was charging the faces. it was nothing for him...where as i was only really interested in being out there & getting scraps from the kick ass locals who were tearing it up. i swear those guys are *uck'n nuts.
a surfer in that big of waves needs to have equal parts smarts, ability & a sheer pyscho factor to commit to the waves when they are double to triple over head. death is always an option when the surf is that big.
i was so spooked that as i worked through the fear of the consequences i found my hard charging spirit came through. we surfed for about 2 hours & then headed in.
when i hit the shore i felt amp'd & scared. it was a universal feeling of being alive.
Posted by Single Fin at October 14, 2005 07:25 PM