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November 07, 2005
cheater...5
for the past year i've been working hard on being able to surf the nose of the board w/ some kind of grace. to stand on the edge w/ only 5 toes over the nose. to be able to properly setup the drop, make a long drawn out bottom turn for the rise to the lip & thus commencing my walking of the plank.
this past weekend i logged some solid hours surfing. i discovered (again) that the more focused i was on my emotions & energy the better my surfing was. truly being humble w/ the flow of the wave & allowing her to guide me. it felt good to be connected like that with the ocean. it felt healing & humbling.
the sunrises have been cloudy lately w/ low winds out of the east. the sunsets have been cotton candy like with soft hues of pinks, oranges & reds. twas a romantic feeling to see the sun dropping last night in the warm colored skies. the perfect backdrop to illuminate the figures of surfers gliding home.
Posted by Single Fin at November 7, 2005 11:28 AM
Comments
hit me with your email again...been talking to Stu - and scheming a Hawaii trip for around march......thanks for the note....
Posted by: dave k at November 7, 2005 03:34 PM