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November 30, 2005
hot marble glass
headed out this morning w/ the bishman. finally today was able to slump back into a surf routine that is traditional for our wednesday mornings. with all the mothers making recent visits & the surrounding drama it was nice to be back to a quiet dawn patrol session. up early in the cool tropic air. toss on the hoody & load up the sticks. glance over @ the east for a view of the cloud coverage. i swear that sometimes you can tell its going to be a good morning just by the colors of pink & orange off in the distant cool blue skyline.
the view from cliffs this morning was of clean glassy lines & little to no wind.
so we stroked out over to "rights" & started to catch about 4 back to back sets. w/ nobody around & everybody over @ "cliffs"...the sets were b eing split between me, the bishman & colin (aka: nicknamed kermit for his punchy & unique mannerism). many of the waves were chest high w/ smooth long walls.
really easy to make big sweeping cut backs, drag the hands along the wall, make some long "S" turns & even get to the nose before having to ride off the shoulder. it felt like i could just melt away right then & there.
the sun bursted up off in the distance illuminating the island of maui as well as several others w/ a rich pink glow. massive sun beams filtering through the clouds with little reef fish speeding about under your board. it was truly a blissful moment.
it brought back the memory of yesterday morning when the same conditions existed but a quick moving squall blew by causing a beautiful double rainbow to drop in a perfect shape right over us all.
i figured hell..what could beat this..? then off in the short distance a pod of about 50 or so dolphins were quietly moving by. the baby spinners learning how to jump & twist in the air as the parents cruz'd by.
i know i know...i can shut up now. but i will say that i'm convinced that these are the moments that will stick w/ me to tell my grandkids when the day comes. until then i'm just happy to being living these moments & enjoying the ride..
Posted by Single Fin at November 30, 2005 01:05 PM