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January 09, 2006

dawn patrol @ dh

i loveeee monday morning dawn patrols sessions!! nobody out...all the kids @ the U are heading to class, the japanese tourists are still sleeeping & the weekend warriors are 4 lanes deep in traffic sipping coffee.

so we headed out to "cliffs" this morning to get some. turns out the wind swell is still cranking out head high monsters. yeeeeeehhhhaaaaa! 5 guys out w/ the sun shinning. changed up the board selection once again & went with the trusty 10' single fin. in retrospect this was a fine choice for the mornings tide swing. great waves w/ many choices for the small handful of regulars.

i will say though the hard charger of the morning award goes to ye for sure. there is no doubt about it. she was taking off on waves 2ft over her head on a single fin. pigtails flapping in the wind & a stoked grin from ear to ear. plus she gets some respect for the best beatings of the morning. the lineup got a few good chuckles once when she literally dove over the falls & passed her board on the way down & got dragged 50yrds underwater. as the old rule goes in surfing....you'll never know unless you go. it's a great sight to see all these local guys out deep & one girl. the only thing she wants to do is sit deep & wait for the bombs to roll through.

Posted by Single Fin at January 9, 2006 11:51 AM

Comments

Posted by: lil' panda at January 9, 2006 12:54 PM