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January 18, 2006

dirty dozen

nice out this morning. great bursty orange sunrise w/ some decent energy in the water. caught a few nice waves over at "rights" & then spent the rest of the morning catching waves over @ "cliffs".

lots of little sections to hustle into & around. good fun w/ a coupla sweet lil'noserides. more mushy w/ the high tide killing the wave face a little. but all in all a good diamond head session. twas the typical dirty dozen crew out this morning. often i find it comforting to paddle out & see these folks waiting in the twlight morning. like hungry soul surfers they are seeking the glide. i mean most of us surf this break 5 to 6 days a week. the conditions have to be really bad in order for the regulars not to paddle out. even then...someone will make the journey out for 1 or 2 waves.

then there is the evening crew which tends to be a younger bunch. of course they are filled w/ alot more aggression & tudes. not as fun to be around in the evenings. most times to dodge that crowd i'll probably just end up over @ "mansions" working on drop in's & short burst paddling. hmm, i suppose in retrospect the investment will return.

anyhow... the surf was good. was nice to rip a few w/ some nice lofty high bank turns leading into some cruzer s-turn carves.

alohas

Posted by Single Fin at January 18, 2006 12:00 PM

Comments

Posted by: lil' panda at January 18, 2006 01:54 PM