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January 13, 2006
doubled up
had to double up the rash guards this morning. brrrrrrr for us tropical surfers @ 530am. slipped into the water about 615ish under the cover of cobalt skies & a bright moon. not many people out this morning due to the mild winds gusting about. its tradewind season down here on the southern part of the island. which means each break tends to be filled w/ the dedicated troops only. most of the other logical thinking people are snuggled up tight in bed & enjoying a decent dream. while the rest of us fruits scamper down the cliff into the dark in search of dreams of a varied kind. i swear surfing is like heroine for me. it's that moment...the one a surfer searches for that i want more of. the feeling of gliding w/ mother nature. when she teaches you about life, love & the way she wants it to be. those moments are what i strive for under the cover of darkness when i paddle out. the world wakes up every morning to the hum drum of life. out there she's the one who is waking me up. with her bright sunrise smile & her warm glow.
interestingly enough this morning it was just me & "kermit" sitting out deep at dh. catching plenty head high bombers. twas a pleasent surprise this morning to have head high+ wind swell good enough to drop in on & lay down some fat turns. topped off w/ a great bursting orange sunrise followed up w/ double rainbows & a massive turtle stopping by the lineup.
there's something powerful about surfing windswell. for me, it makes me dialed in...more focused. i spend more time watching the wave closer & adjusting to the fickle face of the wave. keeping me light, nimble & ready for change. it's a great spiritual lesson being laid down before me. so i'll loosen up my stance, drive faster through sections..pushing the single fin into its performance limits. a true glider like feeling.
the feeling of stoke is pumping through my veins today. still have sand caked on my feet here @ work this morning & the coffee is toasty hot. somebody slap me....
alohas
Posted by Single Fin at January 13, 2006 11:26 AM