« Nourishment Meditation by Thich Nhat Hanh | Main | dawn patrol @ dh »
January 08, 2006
shhh.....& i'll tell u a secret...."wind swell can be mad fun"
everybody was searching for waves this weekend on da island. from some photo's i've seen it looked like everybody was either up in north shore or over in makaha. hell i even think the kite & windsurfers all headed out to the east side to catch the high surf advisory & 20-25mph winds.
i decided to hang out in the south shore. not really what i wanted to do but we're in the middle of a game release & i need to be close to work in case my guys need something. ahh well south shore it is for surfing over the weekend. this time of year unless you have the time to hit the road during the week....your pretty much stuck w/ whateva waves are wrapping around from the north side or whateva wind swell can push out of the south.
needless to say friday was a mild 2hr session @ best. took the 9'6" out & got a beating placed down upon me. chops, humps, bumps, sloppy & windy. felt like a big brother throwing you in a head lock on the front lawn. paddled in tired, cold, hungry, beat & grinning from ear to ear. to be honest i just love the way a wind swell slaps you around like a rag doll. keeps it all humble.
yesterday was another sunset 2 hour session @ dh. i figured what the hell...might as well take the 8ft'r out & get some more. maybe do a little work on my duck diving? so i drove by "cliffs", low & behold only about 10 guys out & serious wind swell stomping in from the outside. paddled out & proceeded to catch sweeeeet over head waves w/ fast drops leading into a solid coupla turns to the shoulder. over & over & over until the sky was so dark i realized i was the only guy out deep. a little spooky considering there has been a coupla decent shark sightings in the past month.
not to mention in the back of my mind i have the distinct image of that great white they caught a glimpse of last week in north shore. estimated @ 17ft long..btw: it's suppose to be a cold water creature.....hahahaha. creepy is the only way to describe that. if u don't believe me..those crazy bastards took some sic photo's to verify a claims of _ullshit!
anyhow...surf was sweet & i was diggin the fact nobody was out. figured i might get lucky & hit dawn patrol in the morning for another slice of dh sweetness. decided to change up the board again & make a few fin adjustments. gambling w/ a more performance 9' 2+1 setup.
score...
10 guys out at dawn, lots of wind swell & couple feet over head on the outside sets. 2 hours later i actually didn't want anymore waves. i think i was already @ about 15. but they kept coming...
guys went in & i stayed. waves kept coming...finally i was so tired i just gave in after 3hrs. i dragged myself onto the sand & my cheeks hurt from smiling & hooting w/ the dh crew.
alohas...
Posted by Single Fin at January 8, 2006 07:25 PM