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January 20, 2006
single fins
dawn patrol this morning was on the lesser quality side for wave catching. not as good as expected...yet still nice to see the sun come up & get some paddling in. all the troops are riding single fins these days. small winter waves bringing out the cruzer state of mind. maybe the trades will back off a bit this weekend. we'll see...
one good highlight this morning was a parting comment from one of the hard core dirty dozen regulars. kermit is in his 50's & is the man out @ dh dawnpatrol. by far one of the better surfers. he arrives before light 5 days a week. sits super deep & has his mark on one of the biggest waves of every set. most guys never put the moves on a wave he's going for. needless to say though, this morning he paddles over to me 7 says:
"hey, sorry about yesterday. i wanted to say i was sorry if i offended you when i was hitting that cutt back & my board shot out in the air. i wasn't ready for the wind to hit me like that."
(mind you this wave was big, overhead & ugly...not to mention he was killing it on a back side cut back into the wind coming off the whitewash.)
my response:
"no problems brah. never noticed the close call, but it was a sweet move you had on that backside cut back going right."
(he was stoked for the recognition)
him:
"yeah we all know each other out here, we're like family out here & look out for each other. same 10-12 guys surf this break everymorning ya know."
me:
"yeah, its all good. no worries."
.....then a set wave came in & i hooted him on..."get'm..go go go"
its going on 3yrs i've been surfing @ that break 4-6days a week. he's been the guy who never talks to anybody, surfs well & sits alone. always the first dark figure in the lineup when the twilight arrives. always setting the mark on charging the big waves at dh. never backs off & seems to stick some very impressive drops, turns & cut backs. it felt good to be recognized by one of the gritty regulars. for him to be humble enough & repect me enough as a surfer to approach me in that manner. i mean...i've made an effort with him & we started to jive a bit in the last 6 months. especially since we like the same types of waves & moves.
another small step forward into the community of surfers they call "locals".
alohas
Posted by Single Fin at January 20, 2006 12:13 PM
Comments
thanks for being my family.
xoxo's
Posted by: lil' panda at January 20, 2006 03:38 PM