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January 28, 2006
south shore small kine
been riding the 8ft'r the past coupla sessions. last night & then again this morning. trying different fin setups & putting my time in. lots of paddle work & duck diving a board that size is not as easy as i was wishing. ah well it's good practice & i've learned i need to hold that board w/ some serious force to drive it out the back of bigger sets. got me wondering about taking the 7'2" out for some rides this week.
one thing i've been noticing about the short board world....most are pricks. i mean just this morning alone i was dropped in on 3 times by 3 different guys. i swear they drop in on each other, snake each other, call each other off waves as they paddle into them...then come off the back & miss them. maybe that's just the kooky dh south shore bunch....not sure. i'm thinking that more talented surfers are a bit more aggressive but also less cheap in tactics. we'll see. i'll be running the mini-tanker & shorty more this year so i'll have to report back on my theory.
soon enough my new office will be setup & i'll be surfing "flies, kewalo's, concessions, courts" & a few others at lunch time. it'll be a heavy brown skin session i'm sure. but hey...give respect & get respect is my rule of thumb.
alohas from out here in the middle of the ocean
Posted by Single Fin at January 28, 2006 05:36 PM
Comments
hah! i think your shortboarder theory is pretty right on...more aggro for sure. in cali they definitely snake and try to outpaddle around each other. i've seen it and know people who are regulars there who complain about it. not as bad here, but since it's so rampant, you gotta make like the romans or you won't get waves. bummer.
compare notes with fannie about ala mo's...she goes there a lot since they moved nearby.
sayonara!
Posted by: val at January 30, 2006 01:29 AM