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February 01, 2006
double session
hit it in the morning & then hit it in the eve.
morning dawn patrol was killer fun small kine. lots & lots of old guard out w/ more 10ftrs then you could shake a stick at. ricky crigg, surf garage crew, coupla local pros & the standard dirty dozen all slugging it out wakiki style.
lots of fun & chitter chatter in the lineup. great sunrise with perfect vision to the reef floor. coupla fun noserides as well.
eve session was choppy & lots of faces in the water that normally are not there. so of course it was a bit tense at times. ah well. that's what the longboard is for....crowd control. :-)
after sunset the line-up went in & the regs were getting a nice little bump for about 20minutes in the twilight dusk. was nice & really a great way to end a long day at work. we're i've been driving hard enough to feel broken.
i love the ocean...it just takes all the exhaustion away & allows me to see the big picture of life.
Posted by Single Fin at February 1, 2006 09:35 AM