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February 22, 2006
me likey surfy, surfy good...work draining.
so it goes...another day sluggin it out in the geek world. modern days version of the industrial revolution. well, kinda sorta that is. with much less harm to the body anyhow.
work is work. it's so busy i wouldn't know where to begin. but hey....who gives a rats ass. more importantly what's up with the surf???
well well well....now we are talking about something this blog is all about.
spent a coupla hours up @ "chun's" for a rainy dawn patrol session. not a bad morning w/ lots of guys out surfing the 9-11ft'rs. plenty of steep drops w/ the larger sets cranking in a coupla feet over head. decided to take the 8ft pintail out for a spin. only to quickly discover that there was a select 4 guys dropping in on everybody. your typical scruffy, dirty ass looking rough neck moks from north shore. i swear it never stops amazing me how people keep snow balling their own stupidity. ah well...suppose being a white guy up there means i need to hold my own. which brings me to this one moment that was super funny....i was zipping down the line, hit a high banked turn & was gearing up for the next fast section. this scruffy old boogie boarder guy starts to drop in on me @ about 6ft away. the wave kicks up to 7ft & i quickly dodge him as i shoot left into the white wash. he & i both get plowed over. yet the thing that struck me the most & was the most offensive was that he had a mullet. yup...you heard right punchy....a full blown bad move tossed in w/ a mullet. but this was not a regular mullet. this class act had a mullet with style.........he had actually taken the efforts to weave into a little braid. which i must say looked amazing w/ the butched buzz cutt & missing teeth on his grill. so i figured i need to uphold the motto i live by "give respect & get respect". we both popped up from the white water & i let him know that maybe next time he should pay attention using better judegment....or the next time he might get run over. ;-)
i know i know that sounds harsh. i did feel a tad bit bad about it. however, he had done this to several others already. not to mention in retrospect throughout the afternoon he had kept on doing it to random people. so i'm not the only one i'm sure that was offended. but @ least he quit doing it to me..
on a more high lighted note for that day...one of the waves i caught was a sweet over head right hander that i did get some cover up barrel action...which then changed into to a human burrito close out bell ringer. ended up touching reef & wishing i was on shore licking my wounded pride. haha lol..
later in the week i picked up a massive 10" nose rider fin. big...black..nasty looking meat cleaver.
loving it...& going out in the morning to let her loose on the small waves.
more to come kiddies....alohas & hang loose out there.
Posted by Single Fin at February 22, 2006 11:00 PM