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February 18, 2006

tubes, fish tacos, sun burns & a sandy toes

hit it on the north shore this morning. couldn't bare to surf another small session again here in town. so so small & tensions seem to be building over the lack of waves. so.....decided to load up the surf mobile & head north in search of head high love....tall, glassy, clear blue kisses from mama nature.

pulled into a full car park @ lani's. lots of lookie loo's slowing & gawking @ the head high/glassy sets. looked like a good coupla sets of some nothern sewell directions. grabbed the 9' single fin & stroked out. coupla local friendly faces in the water which was nice. provided from some chatting while waiting for the macker sets. twas sitting in the middle break @ first to feel out the local vibe. realized that there was a prettty low key crowd w/ lots of whitey's. decided i'd catch a wave in the middle break & then head outside for the bombers, which had been cranking all morning. 1st wave of the day was a nice head high ripper which kicked over a nice cover up almond barrel. pulled in w/ a small stall to make sure i was getting as much as i could...dragged the fingers along the teal blue water. zipped up for the lip & stroked out to the lineup. so so stoked.

headed outside...proceeded to catch several over head waves over the 3 hours. paddled in super happy w/ the mornings events. lots of turtles in the water, plenty of stoke & waves to go round. by about noon the western direction push had started to take over & the crowd was getting 70+ thick.

funny moment....one of the macker sets i was stroking for i had to pull off at the last second due to this massive sea turtle that popped up right in front of me as i was getting ready to drop in. must've had had a shell about 2-3ft wide. big ol'pre-historic looking thing. guess he gets rights to that wave based off of age & being a local. "give respect & get respect"

headed to the local taco joint from some post-session grub.
it's moments like this that i truly enjoy about surfing.

oh yeah....just a shout out to the chiwawa crew up at the cabin this weekend. i hear the skiiing is epic & the backcountry is fresh. wish we could be there to hit the sticks, slugs the ta-killya & keeep the stoke going pacific north west style. miss you ski bums & hope you are getting your share up in the mtn's. we'll try to represent tomorrow again up in the north shore. you slide your way & we'll slide ours....meet somewhere in the middle w/ the same shit eating grin. until we see you mainland folks again...

alohas

Posted by Single Fin at February 18, 2006 11:57 PM

Comments

Posted by: ja at February 20, 2006 09:36 PM