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March 01, 2006
day dreaming
raining today, n/ne swell is wrapping & i hear the south shore has waves as well as the east side has overheads. surfed my brains out this passt weekend. made some serious progress w/ some great hangtens, cheater 5's, hit the lips & some other sweet "s" turns. may not seem like much but on a 10ft board it's much harder then one thinks while surfing diamond head.
anyhow....i was looking at the quiver & realized that life is good. each of these may not be as pretty as the next, but each has it's own use & personality. couple of them are older 80's designs, some 90's & a few modern shapes. as i get more & more into surfing i realize that boards are like bikes. different frames, fins, gear(s) setups, handlebars, tail shapes etc...all start to blend in. a refelction of the soul of the rider.
btw way..i would like to give props to soul-sista. she can rip on all these boards as well ;-}
Posted by Single Fin at March 1, 2006 10:33 AM