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March 11, 2006
saturday morning sunshine
surf last night was more about big wedges closing out at head high (+ on the outside sets). dicey drops with possible affects of a broken stick with a bad choice. got mybell rung on this one outside bomber & ended up getting maytag'd then held down on the reef. to be honest it was kinda wonky but the force of the waves was so rewarding. its nice to be out there & have her send some waves that will mow me down, make me want fresh air, sunshine & another try.
up @ twilight today. antsy & wanting to be in the water. the bishman & i drove around scoping the spots. several boards in the van with choices to surf. i could have sworn we checked as many breaks in one loop as we could..(browns, mansions, cliffs, suicides, tongs, oldmans, inside castels, publics, queens, canoes, pops, paradise & 3's). after the sweep the final call was to hit 3's maybe surf paradise & pops pending stoke factor.
3's wasn't to crowded w/ maybe 20-30 surfers out. nice sets over head with long long lines to goof around on the face w/ some footwork. even had a chance to work on some floaters. the sun was shining bright, lots of sail boats out, people all over the beach & a nice flow of a tropical living.
after about 3hours it was time to get some breakfast, coffee & a paper. the stoke of spending all winter surfing dogmeat dh south shore waves.....it felt so good to let some of that out on a large carving face.
Posted by Single Fin at March 11, 2006 03:41 PM