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March 27, 2006
tropical rain storm session @ lani's
the bishman & i headed up w/ da boards loaded for a north shore session. looked like the only place with decent waves. not to mention it's been raining tropical style now for 2 weeks. some days it rains all day for a full 24hours. lots of flooding & the ocean has some serious nasty run offs. course that means the turtles or feeding, sharks are chasing everything out & about as well. last week (thursday) some tourist got bit down at "left overs" in north shore. plus all over the island there has been lots of shark sightings.
what more a perfect reason to call up a camping surf trip. all the ideal conditions were there...we had the camper van, bottle of vino, full blanket of stars, "lani's" break was right at a river mouth feed into the ocean..pouring out miles of farm lands worth of brown nutrient rich shit/ sludge. the sky was cloudy & rains were heavy. the shark bit scene happened about 1/4th a mile down the road. but more importanly....the waves were head high to a few feet overhead cranking nice long walls with only 15-20 guys out. so to do it justice we brought my new stick & headed out.
we proceeded to have one of the best times of the year. lots of head high rippers & watching local guys just tear down & slash the hell out of 6-8ft reg faces. bishman was showing some serious force going back side pig doggin the rails on some nice over heads. letting some of the locals know that longboarders are able to stick it.
the first hour out i was being a sissy & just going for the head highs at best. still having some fear of the last snapped stick i suppose. then a few guys (wave hogs) went in & the lineup trimmed to about 15 guys. so it was much easier to sit on the peak waiting for some choice sets.
after about 20 more minutes this one macker set started to roll through. the first 2 looked good @ about 8ft faces. so i picked the 3rd juicy one & hauled ass to drop in. next thing i knew it was stacking up a couple feet over head as the wall opened up for a nice 50+ yard stretch with no signs of a closing out. stomped on the tail cranked a nice bottom turn for the lip. looked up & could see a nice 10ft moster wall in front of me rolling with a dribbling whitewash lip. slipped in underneath it & just gunned it for the next section. i could hear bishman yelling & hooting from the pit as i screamed by...hair on the back of my neck standing straight up with goose bumps all over. guys several feet below me in the pit getting munched with a few guys scrapping to get over the top.
the new stick was gliding so fast i was unsure what the hell to do. my mantra was all about holding the line, diggin the inside rail, take the high angle & setup for deep rail cutback if i could make the shoulder in time. whipped down the line with a cat ate the mouse grin..stalled into a deep cutback while spraying a nice wall onto a passing short boarder. all said & done after that i felt sick amp'd.
another hour went by & a few more nice bombers for the books. i swear it only takes one or a few waves to make a session the best of the spring season so far.
headed in with a grin from ear to ear. tropical rain storm still pouring away & the juice flowing in my veins.
i love this stuff & the addiction is beyond anything i've ever known.
Posted by Single Fin at March 27, 2006 02:54 PM