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March 05, 2006
windy blown out south swell
2nd swell of the spring has arrived. not nearly as nice as the one last weekend. but still got some waves every now & then on the outside sets. inside is breaking consistently w/ lots of space to get some practice in for the 8ft'rs new thurster setup. we hit it in the morning hoping to catch some light winds & decent waves. ended up with some waves & moderate winds w/ light crowds. another true lesson about surfing i've been learing is: ...learn to love to surf in wind & you'll get more waves w/ less crowds. most people avoid surfing when the wind is cranking cuz its harder. yet in reality the wind teaches you a few key lessons that are highly valued for progression. for example..
tucking tight when rising towards the lip, throwing more weight into the turn to hold the nose true, pumping the board through gaps/ sections looking for speed, taking off late, handling heavy white wash spray in the face & of course a fine apprecition for mother natures power.
every day is a new day truly applies to this analogy of life.
anyhow..the water & air have been warming up lately. hopefully killing some of that "la nina" affect we have been experiencing lately. hopefully heading out again today.... when the swell is expected to peak.
alohas..
single fin
Posted by Single Fin at March 5, 2006 01:36 PM