June 02, 2006
head high & glassy on cloud 9
yups....it's another day here in paradise. 80degrees, bursty orange sunrise w/ some nice faded patchy clouds.
decided to save the arms last night & head out at 5am this morning. suppose that counts as 3 sessions in one 24hr period? yeah yeah...kinda lame i know. yet believe it or not it was a good call. stroked out for the long paddle to 3's this morning with low to no winds. decent tide shift happening & a straight up south swell coming in at head high on the average sets. first wave i see in the twee hours of morning light is this local guy dropping in on a couple feet over head glassy barrel. sweeeet cover up & a nice deep pitted stoked grin. all the line-up was chattering like hens.
the skin was tingling i was so amp'd. only about 12 guys out & plenty of glass walls to be had. i have no idea why my luck was so good today...but i was catching some of the best waves i've had since last summer. head high, long glassy teal blue zingers with plenty of shoulder to rip some cut backs & scoot to the nose. even had a nice little small kine cover up. nothing to high 5 about...but enough to get the juice pumping in the veins.
some guys had the rides of the session. maybe even for them the rides of the spring time. the looks on their faces was of pure joy. nice fat head high sets with amp'd older guys charging the face. drops were tight & the peak quickly filled up with about 50 guys. caught a few more & just thanked my lucky stars for the waves sent to me.
lots of sunshine, a pack of 20 dolphins swung by the line-up & the waves just kept coming in.
i'm so stoked that cloud 9 is my home today.
Posted by Single Fin at June 2, 2006 12:32 PM