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June 01, 2006
in search of stoke
yup...looking like there is some decent action on the brew. headed out to diamond head for a 2hour sunset session. good waves, nice sunset, warm water & decent winds. credits go out to soul sista for getting one of the best beatings/ maytag's of the night. as you may or may not know....she has a habit of sitting deep & out waiting almost everybody for the best waves of the night. which brings me to the point...that this over head monster warbeled wave was coming in, so i looked to my left to see if she was taking off. all i could see was this guy falling down this 8ft face & next to him was her screaming trying to pig dog the rails & go right. in a way it looked very enchanting. cute looking pig tailed local girl smoking a local guy with an 8ft monster rolling on on the skylines sunset. bright blarring sunshine blinding all of the details out. but.....the lip kicked up and so to did soul sista.
so i quickly popped up once i realized she was gonna get munched. couldn't let that one go by unridded. such a great wave, which lead me to believe that tomorrow morning will be fun fun fun. especially since high tide was @ 1.8ft & killing the head high sets. high tide tomorrow is .5ft ! yeah!
wax'm up cowboys.....i think tomorrow is a crack of darkness dawn patrol session to be followed up with a nice lunch time session & then .....if all goes right we'll be hitting a sunset session.
it's been a day dream of mine to triple session. maybe even a bit of a sickness? is stoke a sickness? last week i surfed so much that my arms felt like lead 3 days later. but the hunger never ends. i can't even drive by the waves lately without watching, looking, rubber necking or getting out of the car for a lookie luu set.
its a wicked sickness i tell ya. all i can do is indulge.
Posted by Single Fin at June 1, 2006 12:52 AM