swirling around

« update from the boonies | Main | dawn patrol @ dh »

July 31, 2006

blissful exhaustion

the subject says it all. doubled up swells in town this past week. late last week we got hit with a mid-size swell topping out the goood spots at 6-8ft. nice waves with some mild chop. plenty of stoke to go round for the summer love sessions.

yesterday was a fun session at 3's. good waves with lots of left handers opening up at solid chest high and clean. surfed for 3 hours until i felt spongy. :-)

this morning was epic. i tuly felt blessed and lucky. paddled out to 3's again. got some sweet rights and a 1/2 dozen lefts. headed over to "paradise" and "pops" a coupla breaks over. nice clean waves with mild waits. lots of action in the water to watch and fill the time between sets. clean teal blue water, sail boats, spear fishers, small flying fish, couple turtles and a pod of dolphins. the best part was there was some kind of beach party happening. playing pink floyd and many other classic rock tunes. soul sista and i had grins from ear to ear. something to be said about dropping in to some chest high glass love with "another brick in thew wall" jamming in the backdrop. truly epic.

then later in the day the new swell kicked in. booooooom the waves have jumped to 6-8ft first tide swing of the afternoon. i headed out to mansions with the 8ft'r 2+1 setup flex fin. twas a beautiful session. nice bombers coming in over head. solid 6ft -8ft with the larger sets reaching about 10ft with long cranking walls. after my first 3 waves i fell into the water with sheer joy. the hair was standing on the back of my neck from the open faces & brute force. i've never claimed myself to be a north shore animal. but what i do love is when everything you've spent your hours working on comes together at one moment in time and you feel amp'd for the success or trying to just try.

finally dragged myself up on the beach with a blissful exhasustion. in fact my eyes hurt the most from being under water so much and the reflection of the sun. lol

all i could think about was sleeping and eating. tomorrow is going to be bigger and better. i'm stoked and the alarm is/ has been set to go off all weekend at 445am. tomottow marks the 1st day of the vacation. looks like mama nature wants me to enjoy her presents.

more to come tomorrow.
alohas all and i'll get some for all of you...i promise.
sf ~

Posted by Single Fin at July 31, 2006 01:29 AM

Comments

Posted by: lil' panda at July 31, 2006 12:10 PM