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July 12, 2006
winds of change
sups all. sorry for the delay. work & life have got me running around like a fool.
needless to say lets get to what matters...
surf has been good! all the things soulsista & i love about diamond head have been happening. windy, choppy, trade swells have been dominating with the best times of the day to surf being high tides @ sunset. nice head high drops w/ fat mushy walls to cruz on. had a great double session yesterday. welcoming the full moon as she goes to bed in the morning & then greeting her as she blooms up off the horizon awaking for the evening.
had some great sessions this week & nailed some super fun moves i've been working on for the past spring. even got a lil'cover up action that was slightly repeatable.
surfing in a trade swell makes us better surfers. the current is strong & your always paddling. feels like running into a headwind at times or even running in place. allows for focus & to be in the moment.
the zen reality is that it's all we have.
tiz why i love surfing.
Posted by Single Fin at July 12, 2006 12:28 PM