« day trippin (part 3) | Main | just another day... »
August 24, 2006
addicted to surf
surf, surf, surf...that's all i feel like doing by the end of the day. it's hotter than hell here. after my last client, single fin & i are out on the water to surf our day away. being on the mainland for 2 weeks truly made me realized how the ocean is such a way of life here for us. there's something about being able to jump in the water to cleanse the day away, to surf your cares away, to forget about all your problems and/or responsibilities. no wonder nothing ever gets done here. the sunset surf crowd is a different breed from the dawn patrol crowd. it's nice to play around and surf different times of the day and to just observe the energy around you. i can honestly say that i'm addicted to surfing. i didn't think it was possible. there's something about the waves, the ocean, being on my board, and just watching all around me. doing dawn patrol tomorrow morning. it'll be a nice change from the evening crowd. but then again, i have a feeling it may be a double session for us tomorrow.
Posted by soul sista' at August 24, 2006 02:01 AM