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August 26, 2006
head high and glassy...
..thats been the surf report for the past 2 days. yesterday was nice in the morning. swell built into the afternoon and on through the eve. this morning was epic. long long rights from "rights" into the inside at "cliffs". soft, clean, glassy, light teal blues, plenty fish swimming about, pink/ orange bursty sunrise & lots of locals dawn patrolers tear'n it up. this is and will be a reward for all those long windy months of choppy slop. diamond head is a fickle wave with lots of wind at times. so these days are so so worth every moment you can soak out there. tomorow will be a double session on the 8ft'r single fin.
speaking of which i did see soul sista get munched on a few 6ft'rs this week. :-) one was a great and late drop on a head high right. she made it down to the pit and the wave spit the single fin out from the wall. next thing i could see was her getting rolled into the wave as if it just made her part of it. then it sucked her up into the lip and threw her down into the pit over the falls. if that wasn't enough she went for the very next wave which was a little bigger. ....results? he he he. same thing. except this time i think she lost her top? the best part was her popping up from the set and stroking outside for the next round w/ a huge grin and super bloodshot eyes from getting pounded. i love to see people charge like that.
stoked!
Posted by Single Fin at August 26, 2006 02:02 AM