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August 13, 2006
sunday sessions
it was great to be back in the water. especially after 2 weeks on the mainland w/ no surf. was feeling alittle ansy when i fflew in last night. the moment i go on the plane i was already planning on where & when to jump in the water asap. this brings me to this mornings waves that were coming in @ high tide. so the over all feel was mushy & choppy. still had a few chest high sets roll in every now & again. alittle akward at first, guess i just needed a few good wipeouts to clear the head. bishman dragged out his 10ft'r single fin. damn that thing is a hog. you can sit 20-40 yrds deeper than everyone & just wait for your wave of choice. not to mention the epoxy lightness when turning. twas nice to get on that large of a board again. there is just something about loggin that can't be beat for an easy day of surfing.
more of a classic moment i would say. just cruz'n on a log single fin, sunday morning, sun shining,teal blue h2o & lots of people just having fun. i will openly admitt that i'm one very grateful SOB for days like these.
anyhow..the craving for fish tacos over took us after a few hours getting fried in the sun. a little down time in the afternoon for some chores & a cold beer to combat the heat. ....then off for a sunset session.
hope all is well out there in your world and life is good.
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at August 13, 2006 07:11 PM