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September 25, 2006
call me a russian monkey
thats about the jist of it right there in the header. i'm whiped like a rented pack-mule. my eyes hurt, my sun burn is on fire, my back feels like someone hit it w/ a bat, my fingers have shriveled up into a beyond-prune state & my hands have the perfect form of a webbed paw. i have no idea what told me to do it..but after the session this morning w/ soul sista i had to go back out. (btw: poor soul sista pulled a rib out of place during the set this morning & still surfed for another hour. kudos for being so hooked on the crack that pain was not an option if that meant missing a glassy roller. she truly is turning into a freak when it comes to the waves. :-)
needless to say after knocking out my sundays to do list & a solid nap, i quickly loaded up the 8' pintail fun board for a second session. what happened after that is burned into my brain until the next epic session comes my way. well you might ask what the hell makes a epic session? hmmmm i would say a few things; solid paddling, good duck dives, sweet overhead drops, spraying water off the lip, a few friends cheering you on, getting thrown over the falls @ 6ft, pinned on the reef for a few moments & just good ole'paddle for the lip to save your ass from getting pounded fun. i would say by these marks....today was a damn fine day. by far the best full session w/ the 8' board i've ever had. got plenty of waves & can say that 6 of them were dialed in. i mean "count down to launch get the monkey in the russian space shuttle we are lifting off for all systems a go kinda dialed in".
i was so stoked to finally after a year of on & off again surfing this board to pull it all together.
it only takes one wave to make the session great. when you get a 1/2 dozen that seem to gel i think something is happening.
its a sign. time to go buy a helmet & start training for north shore.
sf~
p.s.
"southern swell is staying around until Wednesday...then. : New winter activity sheds light for the second half of this week. Low pressure forms North of the Islands today while another storm approaches. Developing Low pressure sets up and further development expected through tomorrow. Intermediate NNW swell pulses up mid-week and begins filling in Wednesday afternoon into Thursday. This storm is still in progress but likely will help waist-chest-shoulder high waves build up to head high sets along standouts Thursday."
Posted by Single Fin at September 25, 2006 12:33 AM