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September 10, 2006
close call...
i almost ran over single fin today. it was pretty scary. it's pretty rare that i'm actually scared out there on the surf. a few times when it's really really big. but today was a scary day. i started paddling for a wave, then decided to pull back. i didn't think i was gonna make it. apparently, the lip picked me up and decided for me that i was gonna go left...here i go. uh oh, there's somebody down in the pit. it all happened so quickly. i went under the water for what seemed like eternity, just waiting for some major impact. i covered my head, like i was taught by single fin....waited & waited. then eventually came up for air. phew...i didn't kill anyone afterall. and then all i could see was single fin's shaken up face, red blood shot eyes right before me. and for that quick second, i said, "oh thank god, it was you." since it was single fin, for some reason, i just knew it was gonna be okay. everyone's okay, boards are intact. i just have a big bruise on my thigh that will have a great story to go with it. we're just full of gratitude that we're alive.
on the flip side, i caught some nice big waves to make up for it all. i was told by single fin that i caught an 8 foot wave. sometimes, i am completely unaware of how big the wave really is. actually, i think most times i am. that's probably a good thing. as they say, ignorance is bliss at times. today was truly humbling.
anyway, sorry single fin for almost running you over. i love you and am glad that you're alive.
Posted by soul sista' at September 10, 2006 11:58 PM
Comments
this is true. i would say that for a brief moment i was only focused on which way that 9" single fin was heading. i wouldn't mind getting mowed by the board...but not the fin. i thought for sure i was going to need staples in my head for that accident. needless to say life goes on & no damage but a bruise or 2. :-)
i will say though it was a bit dicey out there. i surfed mansions later in the session & got several serious poundings as well as several beautiful head high bombers.
Posted by: single fin at September 11, 2006 11:45 AM