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September 08, 2006
full moon sessions
the moon this month looks amazing. this big fat chunk of cheese floating over the south pacific. bright enough to throw some great soft silver light on the waves. luckily there is also a nice swell in town that has brewed out of the deep south. pending the tide swing...most waves on the south shore are 2-5 local scale. (4'-10' regular face) perfect......size for just having fun.
last night the bishman & surfed from about 11pm-330am under the moon's bright light. decided to go to our secret spot rather then the popular & very safe waik's. (waikiki beach aka: canoes)
we quit counting how many waves we thought we had caught. it was a true session of soulful gliding. the waves were beautiful with plenty of light & we even had the backdrop of honolulu (waikiki & diamond head). a warm soft breeze with faint hawaiian music drifting in off the beaches night spots. more of a treat was the walls were throwing so if you found the sweet spot you could get a little shacked. providing for several covers ups & small kine barrels. only 6 guys out uncliding us. it was nice a pack of 1am surfers to be sticking together to keep the take off spot dialed in & provide some partnership of numbers incase of "visitors" underwater. ;-) let me tell you it's still creepy out there at that time. even if you know that sharks are rare in some areas more than others. it's not going to take away the feeling that you are out in the middle of a reef break about 1/4 mile out & in the dark black/ blue night. a true lession of just letting go of that fear & just living in the moment. truly a surfing lesson is to give into the fear & focus on the moment of living. you may laugh....but when your in the ocean she can throw you some serious questions. life just changes in a manner of respect. one night session we did see a huge stingray. the large white coverings & wing span looked like a big ghost underwater. it swept by me & i never noticed until it was a foot away. i'm sure he was just checking me out, beingg a curious creature he/she might be. the trip was i never had an idea that it was a friendly helllo. all i was worried about was it "could" have been a shark. lol....what a clown i was. which gives even more weight to the powers of the islands. let go...and she willl reward you with aloha.
earlier in the week soul sista, myself, kimo & the "flying s" all headed out about the same time at the same break. had mad fun & twas able to catch way to many waves.
one of those couple sessions of all time that will live in my mind as epic.
i feel lucky & happy to have unlocked a door like this in my life.
Posted by Single Fin at September 8, 2006 08:52 PM