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September 18, 2006
south swell is cracking
surfed the hell out of the last 3 days. yesterday was by far the biggest so far of the summer. solid 3-6ft local scale. (6-12ft regular) diamond head was a handful at times w/ a small group of surfers on the outside lineup. most people sat way inside where the shore was. suppose it was hard for them to get out & punch through the breaks. seemed like the channel at cliffs was straight up white wash. most of us snuck in the back door through the lighthouse channel. even that would have been dicey if you picked the wrong set to paddle over. some of the sets were coming in at a solid several feet over head w/ massive closeouts. not much fun for the short boardies. was a little fun though watching them from the outside scambling up the lip to get over the top. a few sneaker sets were at least double overhead. the current was moving really quick as well so it was a making for some good poundings. i haven't had to throw my board & swim for the reef in a while. this day was by far a good day for getting tossed & pounded.
swell today looks cleaner & more organized. still good size & we'll be getting ready for an afternoon session with soul sista.
more to come soon...
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at September 18, 2006 04:26 PM