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September 24, 2006
sun burnt & stoked
surf has been up all weekend. its been a long month of surfing on the arms and back. i'm starting to have to dig into the reserves this weekend in order to handle. but....i've been re-inspired. king nimby over in colorado has thrown it out there. a call to the wild so to say. all the freaks with a passion for their expression have been called to the table. i'm happy to not feel alone in thoughts that are very similar as some of his most recent honest out bursts.
yesterday i surfed for 5 hours. surfed until my eyes hurt from the sun & my face was burning after the sunscreen melted away hours before. at one point i had the break to myself for 2 hours with 2 guys. it was a true blessing. a reward that was unplanned & honest. i was making head high sections & yanking moves i would normally back off from. this morning was much more of the same thing. throwing down in sections that i normally feel have little opportunity. the net results have been a snapped twig afffect. i found myself talking to self heavy yesterday during the surf. my own peanut gallery givng me the calls from the shoulder sideline. the gut feelings take over and shelling out honest brutal advice about being a mary & not taking that drop or not pig dogging that rail on the back side. or most honestly telling me to do my breathing soul sista taught me inbetween sessions. a cleanse of the sipirt and a true thank you back to the mother earth.
the most honest part of the wave is when she is hitting you in the face with the lip and you can't see. she's testing you...trying to throw you off. so i close my eyes, grint the teeth and let the little man in my belly steer me into the zen of the moment. to surf by the love of the next moment and allow for the pushing to the light. often you can make it...sometimes she throws down on you and tosses you over the lip & rolls you up to be munched.
its all about the piko out here. when you truly let go you know you are home.
sf ~
Posted by Single Fin at September 24, 2006 05:13 PM