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October 19, 2006
7'2" big boy quad fin fish
yuppers...my shaper called me last night as was heading down into town today to drop of some sticks he had just picked up from the glassers. the new sled is ready for action. there is head high clean swell in town and the cloud formations were looking to be like epic for sunset.
ended up heading into work early so i could get all my crap and cat herding done. bailed at 3 and surfed from 4-7pm on the new stick. i was wondering about the various aspects i would need to deal with while getting use to the new board. paddling...duck diving..stroking into a set wave...the drop..turns etc. i was second gueesing my design choices pretty much until the moment i made my first bottom turn. thankfully there is a nice clean and glassy head high swell in town right now on the south shore. decided i would head to mansions and cliffs for the 1st session.
the paddle was easy...duck dives were a snap and the drops were super fast. first wave was a back side head high left with a nice closeout section from the start. turns out this board flys and wasn't nothing but a thing....
a few rights and a couple more lefts and i was truly hooked. very impressed with the choices kimo and i made for this board. can't wait to pack it up tonight and get ready for the maui surf trip tomorrow.
i've heard the swell right now is cranking with couple feet overhead on the north side of the island.
more to come soon as i load the pics..
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at October 19, 2006 03:17 AM