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October 09, 2006
chill weekend
some swell on the island this weekend.
friday night was epic & clean. about chest high but super glassy with perfect right handers holding up into the channel. one of the best sunsets of the year to be married with a epic full moon rising to the east. stayed out extra late & tore it up onthe 8'. sweet drop with huge dollops of moonlight all over the face to see. even had a little fishy swim up next to me, roll over on it's side & flap its fin at me as if to wave or say hello. trippy eh?
then up & at'em for a dawn patrol run to hit the north shore for the 1st session of the fall/ winter. chun's was getting some over head bombers everynow & again. super clean & glassy as well. mostly surfed the inside w/ chest high & consistent sets. hard to sit on the outside peak since i had the bonga perform board. then again it's hard to compete with those fat 50yr old guys with 10' (23"wide, 3.5" thick) monster hogs. ahhh no worries the baby boomers days are numbered anyway. i like to watch them argue back & forth on who's wave it really should be. as if they forget that they've been getting all the waves all morning & the other 50 surfers on the inside are nothing more then a potential obstacle. lol, then people wonder why they get dropped in on by shorty's on the inside. i love local rationals..its turning into a hawaiian riddle for me. sometimes i feel that if i can solve the locals mentality when it comes to wave judegment i might get a prize. until then we get boned & perplexed.
anyhow. still had lots of fun with soulsista. even hit diamond head for a session that night at cliffs & mansion's. tried out this new water camera but its a litttle funky & need to praactice with it before i share with you monkeys.
until the next time....
"keep her straight & lean"
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at October 9, 2006 01:12 AM