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October 31, 2006
experimenting
ok ok these are not the best shots in the world. i'm in the process of playing around with this new little water camera called "digital hero". it's a simple wrist mount and just a point & shoot. it does shoot some 10sec vids as well. however at this point it's all about trying to be inthe right spot at the right time. ah well...still fun to get out & experiment.
the typical morning walk down to cliffs.
a view many of us get use to when we surf diamond head. this photo contains all the land marks you need to sit in the right spots & get nice waves at "rights" or "lighthouse"
morning light @ dawn patrol
"fall season love: waves, sand, sun & a trusty board"
Posted by Single Fin at 10:31 AM | Comments (0)
October 26, 2006
surf porn
smut smut smut.....
love it...watch it and see it....
more pervy surfing smut here:
http://surfysurfy.blogspot.com/
Posted by Single Fin at 12:41 PM | Comments (0)
October 24, 2006
maui
(this paddle was easy when you got into the rip, not so easy is the rip pulled you in...)
nice weekend a few islands away. good people, good weather, large waves and great food.
shots of the surf spot called "ho'okipa" on the north side of maui. nice waves with brutal currents, fast rips, very lava rocked bottom & 3-4 ft over head waves. all in all it was creepy at times surfing this spot. pretty much got off the plane, slept a little then paddled right into the lineup on an empty friday morning. took some serious beatings over the next few days, got sucked into the rip and took off on some wobbly looking big sets. this was the first big swell for northern maui and it was fun to be out watching locals tear the waves apart.
we also surfed the west side alot over the 3 days there. a place called "guard rails". nice'n easy shore pound with black sand beaches.
nice looking close out right hander out of the point and into the bay to meet the left hander coming out you (see next pic for the left when it formed)
super fun lefts all the way into the channel. as long as the right(over by the rocks) wasn't cranking you were fine.
Posted by Single Fin at 04:38 PM | Comments (0)
October 19, 2006
peek-a-boo
a friend gave me this...the quote is "live love laugh surf"
UPDATE news flash:
Maui's north side is cranking today at 3-4 ft over head in some spots. for you non-surfy surfy people that means its bigger then a greyhound bus chasing you down the street.
Posted by Single Fin at 10:39 AM | Comments (0)
7'2" big boy quad fin fish
yuppers...my shaper called me last night as was heading down into town today to drop of some sticks he had just picked up from the glassers. the new sled is ready for action. there is head high clean swell in town and the cloud formations were looking to be like epic for sunset.
ended up heading into work early so i could get all my crap and cat herding done. bailed at 3 and surfed from 4-7pm on the new stick. i was wondering about the various aspects i would need to deal with while getting use to the new board. paddling...duck diving..stroking into a set wave...the drop..turns etc. i was second gueesing my design choices pretty much until the moment i made my first bottom turn. thankfully there is a nice clean and glassy head high swell in town right now on the south shore. decided i would head to mansions and cliffs for the 1st session.
the paddle was easy...duck dives were a snap and the drops were super fast. first wave was a back side head high left with a nice closeout section from the start. turns out this board flys and wasn't nothing but a thing....
a few rights and a couple more lefts and i was truly hooked. very impressed with the choices kimo and i made for this board. can't wait to pack it up tonight and get ready for the maui surf trip tomorrow.
i've heard the swell right now is cranking with couple feet overhead on the north side of the island.
more to come soon as i load the pics..
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at 03:17 AM | Comments (0)
October 16, 2006
shots from north shore
first and foremost these shots are from hawaiianwatershots.com & please check'm out for some of the best waterphoto shots on the island.
take a look at this past weekend....
enough said right here.
Posted by Single Fin at 05:54 PM | Comments (0)
shaken the shack
damn skippy we are well & alive out here in the tropics. a few less coconuts on the trees & a few saved kilowats since the power was out for the day. other then that life is back to normal. thankfully!
i was a little freaked though as i wondered if a tsunami was on the way. the entire island came to a screeching halt about 7:10am. even the emergency radio station was out for the first 15 minutes. which is very creepy since most of the warnings say that we have 15minutes after an earthquake before a tsunami would hit. shesshh..
anyhow, all is well on this island.
by the way; surfed north shores kewela bay saturday at head high with a nice bumping nnw swell.
Posted by Single Fin at 10:40 AM | Comments (0)
October 13, 2006
just another evening...
aaahhh, a quiet evening to myself...single fin's passed out on the couch from mental & physical exhaustion. i guess he played too many video games at work today, the cats may have been too hard to herd today & then he rode my beach cruiser home from work. i don't think he was too happy takin' the slow lane on the sidewalks. and then had to climb up the hills on top of it. my poor baby. (i love you!)
i got a chance to catch a few waves tonight after work. cleansed the day away. i'm thoroughly convinced now that it is mandatory for me to end my day in the ocean. i'm at peace with the fact that i don't have to catch a bunch of waves. just one is nice. even then, as long as i'm thrown around a bit, maybe lose my suit, get to laugh hysterically at myself...then it's a good session :)
it's been a busy week for me. 'seeing clients, teaching classes, did a random photo shoot for a sports attire catalog company, never a dull moment here. i'm getting ready to go to maui for a week to attend a yoga workshop with manju jois. i'm getting really excited about studying yoga & chanting the week before my birthday...what a great way to start the year?!! single fin's gonna catch up with me over the week-end to celebrate with me. surfing, yoga, listening to music, playing in nature, being with loved ones, making new friends, exploring the unknown, being open to love... what more could i ask for?
love & namaste,
soul sista'
Posted by soul sista' at 12:38 AM | Comments (5)
October 12, 2006
rayman & rabid bunnies
i can't wait to play this game. i love the humor & creative force that is behind the new "wii" console design. the "wii" will cause people to get up off their gamer asses & move around. much like the success of DDR.
at least i hope so anyway..
Posted by Single Fin at 01:59 PM | Comments (0)
bombs away
this past summer when i was up in seattle i found this stencil painted on a doorway off a back lane alley in bellingham. i thought it was a powerful image.
Posted by Single Fin at 12:26 PM | Comments (0)
October 11, 2006
hooky (part 2)
a good book, a few palms trees, light east breezes, a couple cold stubbies & some sand caked on the toes...
aaaaaaahlohas
p.s.
just found out there is some late season new zealand stroms on the way for the south shore for this week...yeahhhaaa.
Posted by Single Fin at 06:29 PM | Comments (0)
playing hooky @ chun's reef
just a quick passage from me..an average regular joe surfer in search of stoke. i've never claimed to be good, great or wanted to be a pro. what i search for is the moment & the feeling of freedom of soul. my outlets lately are surfing & the bond with mother natures life blood..othewise known as water:
finally able to steal a day away from work. after reading the buoys, looking at the recent kona wind patterns in the early morning & playing a hunch....i thought it was time to head up for a days session in north shore. yes yes...i could've gotten skunked & maybe even got shacked. i could've wasted a day chasing small ankle biters. hard to say & all i could do was enjoy the trip. it's always about the adventure anyway. never really about the reward. more about the amp'd satisfaction of getting up at 345am under the cover of darkness. loading up the sticks & bombing up to the country.
pulled into the parking a few other sleepy surfers standing under the palms sipping coffee. breathing in the morning sea air while we awaited the first glimpes of the sets. through the fog we could hear some sets rolling in & it sounded big. there had been some beach side chatter about the buoys picking up but nobody has seen anything yet.
another 15 minutes go by then we get the first real set wave views. everybody dropped their jaws & ran for the boards. it was rolling in overhead & glassy like butter. outside sets were starting to come in at almost double over head on the bombers. still dusk & you could hear people in the parking lot hooting & yelping with excitement.
for the next 3 hours i surfed my brains out. caught some of the biggest cleanest waves of the year. even got a few barrels & coverups. the stoke was so hyped up with only a dozen guys out. at one point there was just 8 of us. i was so happy i could have just frozen time right then & there. apparently the surf report was calling the waves at 1-3 local scale with it suppose to pick up late afternoon. most people probably just headed to work and decided to save themselves for the next few days worth of waves. man...they were so so wrong. it was cranking 2-4 on the average set with glassy 3-5 every 20minutes. (2 to 4 = chest high to 6ft, 3 to 5 = head high to almost double overhead)
once an hour we all got the serious pounding when a double over header would roll through with 2 more waves off the back. i really really wanted one of those as did several of us once we could see the walls holding up through the inside.
about 45minutes later after catching a bunch of over heads...we could see this lump on the horizon. someone just yells "outSiDE" & we all start paddling like freaks for the horizon. nothing like seeing a 10ft wave coming at you that is 70yrds long. it was creepy fun with hair on the back on the neck standing straight up. a few guys went for the first one which looked sweet. i decided i would take the second since since i would be the only guy left in position. twas a late drop that was throwing a small barrel at the top of the peak w/ a massive face down the line. so i said ah _uck it i'm going & pulled into the barrel. from there i was in for a few seconds & i could hear guys hooting. then the best thing happened as the lip hit me i was thrown into the pit & sucked out the back for a clean exit. normally i would have broken my board or got pounded on the reef. this time was a lesson in letting go w/ no fear. it felt great as i was committed to enduring what ever that wave gave me.
held out for a few more sets with beautiful rights before it started to closing out.
paddled in a happy stoked surfer. even had the chance to share all my wax with other surfers in need.
truly an epic session.
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at 10:35 AM | Comments (0)
October 09, 2006
chill weekend
some swell on the island this weekend.
friday night was epic & clean. about chest high but super glassy with perfect right handers holding up into the channel. one of the best sunsets of the year to be married with a epic full moon rising to the east. stayed out extra late & tore it up onthe 8'. sweet drop with huge dollops of moonlight all over the face to see. even had a little fishy swim up next to me, roll over on it's side & flap its fin at me as if to wave or say hello. trippy eh?
then up & at'em for a dawn patrol run to hit the north shore for the 1st session of the fall/ winter. chun's was getting some over head bombers everynow & again. super clean & glassy as well. mostly surfed the inside w/ chest high & consistent sets. hard to sit on the outside peak since i had the bonga perform board. then again it's hard to compete with those fat 50yr old guys with 10' (23"wide, 3.5" thick) monster hogs. ahhh no worries the baby boomers days are numbered anyway. i like to watch them argue back & forth on who's wave it really should be. as if they forget that they've been getting all the waves all morning & the other 50 surfers on the inside are nothing more then a potential obstacle. lol, then people wonder why they get dropped in on by shorty's on the inside. i love local rationals..its turning into a hawaiian riddle for me. sometimes i feel that if i can solve the locals mentality when it comes to wave judegment i might get a prize. until then we get boned & perplexed.
anyhow. still had lots of fun with soulsista. even hit diamond head for a session that night at cliffs & mansion's. tried out this new water camera but its a litttle funky & need to praactice with it before i share with you monkeys.
until the next time....
"keep her straight & lean"
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at 01:12 AM | Comments (0)
October 05, 2006
all we need is love...
okay, so i'm walking around singing john lennon songs all day. am i really a hippie chick? what's going on? "all we are saying is give peace a chance...imagine all the people....all we need is love..." is it the yoga? yeah, it's helped. i think it's also experiencing krishna das' chanting the other night. yes, it's another new age experience. i couldn't help but feel so much love deep within after my chanting experience.
check out his website if you've never heard it before: www.krishnadas.com
surfing is going well. the yoga has helped me feel so solid on my board, no matter what size it is. i've been playing around on our bianchi green little board...zipping around here and there, up and down. it's no longer so hard to paddle, compared to my long board. it just feels so good to be in the water to wash the day away. the moon's getting bigger and bigger...time for another full moon surf session at our secret spot soon. can't wait!!
much love to you all,
soul sista'
Posted by soul sista' at 01:07 PM | Comments (0)
hit & run
surf is small right now. that time of year when the south dies out & the north is sloooooowly kicking up.
last 2 nights out have been tiny but good to get in the water.
spent a few minutes on "flicker" site looking at these photos.
all 3 are are the scary of scary for me.
freakiest wave in the world right here....
um yes dear, there are sharky's in the water. just don't worry & they will leave you alone.
pucker up you big puss and give uncle a kiss
Posted by Single Fin at 01:10 AM | Comments (0)