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November 28, 2006
swirling around
busy, busy...my deepest apologies for being MIA in the blog scene. at least single fin's been pretty good about keeping you all entertained, though. we had a nice surf session this morning at dawn patrol. it's been awhile since i've been out. i've been doing my yoga thing...i'm hooked on my mysore practice of ashtanga. it gives to me on such a deep level. it's been a nice balance of my work week, start the mornings with yoga, see clients, end the day with surfing the day away. anyway, it was good to see the old crew again. lots of smiles, heckling & plenty of aloha.
'was sitting out deep with the big boys, good 'ole "kermit" (he's a skinny local guy who's on a big yellow board, which he surfs as if he were still on his short board), big hawaiian guy (who's got a few kids, all live on the mainlaind, he sits on his 10 foot epoxy board, he likes the big waves like i do...will wait forever, just for THE WAVE), and then there's the white guy who's on a shorter board (he likes to paddle for everything & takes a good beating on his head, more than he catches waves), and me, on my 9'0" buddha board. the big hawaiian guy apologized for dropping in on me the last wave we had. i told him, "no worries & that i didn't mind sharing. i actually like it." then this little wave just started forming behind us and all the boys yelled to me, "go!!!" i didn't make it by just a hair, but it was a nice to be on the receiving end of a little bit of aloha.
and then you've got 80+ year old louie, he's as dark as night, who can boogie board with the best of them. i had the biggest smile watching him come bombing down a wave, kicking hard with his blue fins, swirling around all over the place with an ear to ear grin. aaahhh, the simple things that make us happy.
surfing out here reminds me of a big playground, lots of people trying to get down the slide, doing all sorts of tricks, trying to go as fast as they can, feeling that total sense of freedom & escape from life's stressors. what a wonderful way to start the day?!!
loving alohas to you all!!
Posted by soul sista' at November 28, 2006 12:16 PM