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December 18, 2006
head high & glassy
stroked out this morning about 630am under the cover of cobalt skies.
lots of white wash around so it was a good sign that the swell was still bumping. decided to surf 3's with the hopes that it would be solid head high at least with outside sets a couple ft overhead. (8ft regular faces) sure enough it was true, 3's was firing with about 40 guys out by 7am. everyone was stoked & catching great waves. its nice to just paddle down these big faces & looking over at a wall that streches 75yrds. the excitment is enough to cause you to fall off the board trying to hurry down the line.
surfed for about an hour & a half. ended up catching about 8-9 waves. 3 of which were sweet. one of which was unreal with a lip overhead & a large enough wall that you could have fit 2 more surfers on longboards. after a couple noserides & a few poundings it was time to head in for a cup of coffee. picked up the blissed out soulsista from yoga & headed home.
amazing what a few good waves can do to the mind.
thanks santa! i don't care what they say...your the man!
Posted by Single Fin at December 18, 2006 03:22 PM