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December 28, 2006
holidaze
nutty busy lately & i've let the blog fall to the side a bit.
no worries...it's not a lost interest. just a shortage of time.
been surfing our brains out, hanging with friends & working.
the surf has been fun on the south shore. as of yesterday the south swell has finally died off. we had a nice 2 weeks of unexpected s/sw swells hitting for a nice segway from the holiday madness. surfed the hell out of the 8'8" mini-tanker. which has turned out to be a wonderful experience. i think this might be the magic board for me in 06/07. i've already mentioned to kimo that his loaner is now part of my quiver & i'll be trading or cutting a deal for a proper payment.
twas also able to hit north shore for a session last week at chuns. nice waves at about 3ft overhead. no complaints this time of year up on the north shore. there seems to be swells arriving every 3 days with plenty of waves for all. its even been getting up to solid 15+regular faced size waves.
more to come soon enough..
alohas & happy holidays from out here in the south pacific
Posted by Single Fin at 04:32 PM | Comments (0)
December 23, 2006
logging in
a wonderful day of variety...single fin got to pull a double session, in between meetings on his "crack berry", surfed once in north shore, second time in south shore. i got to hike my 1000 stairs up a crater overlooking the pacific ocean, race down to get a pedicure, had a meeting, met up with an old client, saw a few clients, ended the day in the surf, splurged on a decadent meal at neiman marcus, and christmas shopped. can't complain one bit. and now we're both on vacation for a few days!!! yay!! what a life?!
Posted by soul sista' at 01:42 AM | Comments (0)
December 20, 2006
'ohana
'tis the season...i can't believe the holidays are just around the corner. time seems to be just flying by. single fin & i are so busy these days with work & balancing our quality of life, the very reason we're here in hawaii. we're learning so much about ourselves in our work environments, challenging ourselves on so many levels. we just had single fins' company party last night. i am just coming down from my annual meeting with all my colleagues last week. 'ohana seems to be the theme of it all. the people involved in our work life are our 'ohana out here. it's a nice feeling, especially when both of our families are so far away on the mainland.
single fin's been ripping it up on kimo greene's loaner board. it's so amazing to watch how the board is truly an extension of his being. he's been super psyched, making crazing turns, coming up to the lip, spraying water everywhere. the ocean is truly his temple and playground, all in the same.
me? i'm content with my one wave out deep...that somehow decides to choose me out of the entire crowd. we've changed my fin set up from single to thruster set, which has made a difference in my turns. yoga has been treating me well in the mornings. making progress little by little.
keep in touch, our dearest 'ohana...happy holidays!!
Posted by soul sista' at 12:58 PM | Comments (0)
December 18, 2006
head high & glassy
stroked out this morning about 630am under the cover of cobalt skies.
lots of white wash around so it was a good sign that the swell was still bumping. decided to surf 3's with the hopes that it would be solid head high at least with outside sets a couple ft overhead. (8ft regular faces) sure enough it was true, 3's was firing with about 40 guys out by 7am. everyone was stoked & catching great waves. its nice to just paddle down these big faces & looking over at a wall that streches 75yrds. the excitment is enough to cause you to fall off the board trying to hurry down the line.
surfed for about an hour & a half. ended up catching about 8-9 waves. 3 of which were sweet. one of which was unreal with a lip overhead & a large enough wall that you could have fit 2 more surfers on longboards. after a couple noserides & a few poundings it was time to head in for a cup of coffee. picked up the blissed out soulsista from yoga & headed home.
amazing what a few good waves can do to the mind.
thanks santa! i don't care what they say...your the man!
Posted by Single Fin at 03:22 PM | Comments (0)
santa stopped by
and....he decided to leave us a nice 2-4ft (local scale) south shore swell for the week.
twas expected to hit yesterday but looks like today was just as fine as ever. so we hit diamond head about 3pm with a packed parking lot. nice south swell cranking in at solid head high with 3-4ft over head on the big sets. decided to hit mansions on the first part of the session. got my bell rung a few times & had my fair share of maytags to loosen up the mainland legs from the trip last week. south sista was taking her fair share of spankings as well. good for us both.
it was actually nice to get worked. felt good to shake a long trip & a weeks worth of work out of the body. suppose thats what they refer to as "hawaiian style". mother nature coming in & letting us holiday clowns know she has control.
looks like the south swell should be around for a few more days lasting until thursday. a very nice & very rare out of season surprise for sure. looks like a dawn patrol session will be in order. should be great fun on the new board kimo is letting me borrow. (8'8" noserider pintail) he's trying to convince me to get rid of another stick i have thats not one of his. in his way its like saying...no friend of mine rides other shapers boards. so he loaned me this new stick to see if i like it. so far so good with several nice noserides & mushy 60/40 rails for a pillow effect drop.
came home and put up the tree with mama-son. local grown, loacal family & local cut.
more to come soon...time to go to sleep & dream sweet dreams of glassy head high waves, barrels & long walls.
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at 12:46 AM | Comments (0)
December 11, 2006
back from the mainland
hawaii --> nyc --> upstate ny --> montreal --> nyc --> la --> back to hawaii
me need sleepy, mmore to come soon.
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at 04:48 PM | Comments (0)
December 04, 2006
friendship & grace
friendship : "to love people who love you is easy. choose to be everyone's friend, whether they like you or not. when you love and accept others as they are, you will have friends everywhere."
grace: "the beauty of grace is that you receive blessings for no reason. as above, so below. practice random acts of grace. give to others for no reason, offer kindness to those who are undeserving, love those who no one else loves. practice grace."
~just wanted to share with you all...
Posted by soul sista' at 05:23 AM | Comments (0)