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December 18, 2006
santa stopped by
and....he decided to leave us a nice 2-4ft (local scale) south shore swell for the week.
twas expected to hit yesterday but looks like today was just as fine as ever. so we hit diamond head about 3pm with a packed parking lot. nice south swell cranking in at solid head high with 3-4ft over head on the big sets. decided to hit mansions on the first part of the session. got my bell rung a few times & had my fair share of maytags to loosen up the mainland legs from the trip last week. south sista was taking her fair share of spankings as well. good for us both.
it was actually nice to get worked. felt good to shake a long trip & a weeks worth of work out of the body. suppose thats what they refer to as "hawaiian style". mother nature coming in & letting us holiday clowns know she has control.
looks like the south swell should be around for a few more days lasting until thursday. a very nice & very rare out of season surprise for sure. looks like a dawn patrol session will be in order. should be great fun on the new board kimo is letting me borrow. (8'8" noserider pintail) he's trying to convince me to get rid of another stick i have thats not one of his. in his way its like saying...no friend of mine rides other shapers boards. so he loaned me this new stick to see if i like it. so far so good with several nice noserides & mushy 60/40 rails for a pillow effect drop.
came home and put up the tree with mama-son. local grown, loacal family & local cut.
more to come soon...time to go to sleep & dream sweet dreams of glassy head high waves, barrels & long walls.
sf~
Posted by Single Fin at December 18, 2006 12:46 AM