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February 11, 2007
chuns on a saturday
not a bad day out yesterday. headed up to north shore for some nice over head swell action. soul sista was off to yoga and ironically i was off to chuns for my own meditation. it was a strange setup when i paddled out: a strong rip was tearing through the inside and after watching several people get pulled into the rocks i had a plan mapped out. nothing like paddling right at the 6ft close out sets and then in the impact zone letting the rip tug me to the shoulder. once i hit the shoulder i just added a little geometry and 25 paddle strokes into the mix. BAM....rode the rip to the outside. SWEETness was there was only one guy out.
so i surfed for about 2 and 1/2 hours with less then 6 guys! at one point it was just me for about an hour. a little slice of heaven..
weird thing was that i was making a bottom turn on a wave that was about 3-4 ft over head. i felt super laggy and couldn't get the tail to carve. felt like my ankle was tired and not able to help me drive the fins. i laugh at this now...but later in the day i looked down and realzed i was surfing with a sprained ankle that was swollen to the size of a small orange. guess i never noticed it.
lol...man...i need to cut back on working so much. starting to loose focus on body pains.
Posted by Single Fin at February 11, 2007 07:08 PM