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February 01, 2007
shorty...
i just got back from a surf session with our good friend, alan's, short board that he gave us right before we moved out here. i absolutely love it!!! (thank you, alan!!) my second session as an official short boarder. whew hew!! unfortunately, single fin couldn't join me...he was slaving away at the video game playing cat herding factory. he had to save the universe tonight.
but i surfed a few extra waves for him. my leash broke after the second wave i caught. that must be a sign that i need to go in, i thought at first. but then i decided to go in on the inside, which i resist profusely everyday, and ended up catching some kick ass waves. the board truly felt as if it were an extension of me. not a care in the world, completely present, in the moment, being embraced by the ocean...i am truly thankful for this being my home. who knows how long it will last? all i know is that nothing is forever, so i must be full of gratitude...because this too shall pass.
Posted by soul sista' at February 1, 2007 09:11 PM