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March 11, 2007
dialed in
nice day out today in hawaii. lots of waves on the south shore about waist to head high. we hit cliffs about 8am for a nice sunday morning session. a little choppy at times but as anyone who has ever surfed diamond head knows....you get what you get & you make the most of it. which by the way i can honestly say that surfing cliffs year round has completely evolved our surfing. we've learned to use the chops as a vert ramp at times. today for example, i think i cleared a nice ollie on the long board about 2ft in the air, stuck the landing & did a nice tail step to shoot off the back. later in the session i nailed a nice floater over some short boarder who was duck diving underneath. twas a fun little way to show some improv style.
oh yeah, a nice little thing to mention that i forgot to yesterday. soulsista had a sweet wave yesterday on a nice outside set over at browns. a nice 8ft+ face at the peak with a sheet glass teal blue wall all the way into the channel. she took off at the peak after some other guy chicked out. was a sweet drop with buried rails all the way to a nice right hand wall. then again today she hammered a nice over head backside drop with a pig dog rail grab. SWEETNESS!
all while not loosing her bikini.
Posted by Single Fin at March 11, 2007 08:23 PM